About Secrets of Paris

American-born travel journalist and guidebook author Heather Stimmler-Hall created the Secrets of Paris in 1999 to share the hidden side of the City of Light. Discover what you've been missing:

* Private Customized Tours
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Read more about the Secrets of Paris here

Calendar of Paris Events

Through June 17
Looking for a romantic exhibition in a little-known museum? Don't miss Sensuality and Spirituality: In Search of the Absolute at the Musée Henner (43, avenue de Villiers, 17th, M° Malesherbes; entry €5; closed Tuesdays, open until 9pm on first Thursdays of the month).

Through June 26
Celebrate the 50th anniversary of the passing of Frenchchanteuse Edith Piaf with sexy cabaret singer Caroline Nin's "Hymne à Piaf", a show using English storytelling and songs en français to remember one of the greatest French singers of all time. Shows are every Wednesday at 8pm at the intimate Essaïon Theatre (6 rue Pierre au Lard, in the Marais, 4th). Tickets are €15-€20. 

CLICK HERE FOR THE FULL CALENDAR

Secrets of Paris gives 10% of all tour fees
to the French food bank, Les Restos du Coeur

« The Naughty Paris Guide! | Main | Book Review: A Town Like Paris »
Thursday
Jan102008

Ringing in the Smoke-Free New Year with Absinthe and Parisian Punks

After drinking more than my weight in Champagne over the holidays (okay, that's not that hard), I decided to give up drinking for 2008. I was doing great until I was invited to an absinthe tasting last weekend at a local punk bar, Le Cantada II. How could I resist?

It was my first outing this year, and as I walked past the bars, cafés and restaurant of the Oberkampf district, I couldn't believe that it was actually true what I was seeing: all of the Parisians were smoking outside. Even though it's cold and raining, the terraces are packed full. I arrived at Cantada II (13 rue Moret, 11th), where goths, punks, and other mohawked misfits were also smoking outside the door. Inside the wonderfully smoke-free bar, I immediately spotted my group, looking slightly out of place among the regulars.

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Adrian, Daniel, Louisa, Olivier et moi

Among the gang are a few familiar faces, including pastry chef and cookbook writer David Lebovitz (on a much needed break from finishing his latest manuscript), "Mister Wine Tasting" Olivier Magny, restaurant reviewer and palace hotel concierge Adrian Moore, and Spring owner and chef Daniel Rose. Our hosts for the evening are food journalist Louisa Chu (you've probably seen her hosting food shows on American TV) and our absinthe expert (and maker) Peter Schaf.

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Absintheur Peter (and his wife behind the dripper).

Not only does Cantada II have the largest selection of absinthes in France (each one has its own unique taste), it also has all of the cool accessories, including the water dripper, slatted spoons and the right glassware. Peter brought a few bottle from his own collection for us to try, including a 100-year-old bottle made before the absinthe prohibition (the ban was lifted in France in 1992, FYI). As the glass was passed around, I asked "Anyone here have a cold?" But David pointed out that the 70% alcohol content would probably kill any germs anyway. Of course, he and Olivier were drinking wine, sheesh!

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David, looking particularly wicked with those glowing devil horns.

After our tasting (it doesn't take much!) a few people decided to try the bar's "Medieval cuisine". I thought I'd have a peek before ordering myself. Well, it smelled good....

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Ye olde grub (some sort of game stew).

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Tried without the flash to see if it looked better...

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"Get a close-up photo," says Olivier. Yeah...

I ate up the street at Nono instead. ;-)

 

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Reader Comments (6)

The stew was actually fine when it was hot - fairly tender chunks of venison, well seasoned with black pepper - but congealed rather unappealingly when cooled. Still better than most of the bar food in the world - hello, jalapeno poppers anyone? BTW why doesn't anyone warn me when they're about to take my picture and then post it on the internets? I was clearly in the middle of saying something of grave importance ya know. ;)

Heather, how's the alcohol abstinence going? Or was I your undoing for the year? :)
February 26, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterLouisa

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