When I want what I ask for and advice I can trust, I go to Victoria at StylePixie (tel 01 46 70 25 69). Over the years I've been cut, colored and -- most importantly -- taught how to best take care of and style my own hair, something I rarely get from other stylists. And StylePixie's experts can even graciously "fix" boo-boo's wihtout making you feel like an idiot (well, the haircolor on the box I bought at the supermarket looked like the right shade in the photo).

The spacious loft salon is located right outside the metro station Marie & Pierre Curie on line 7 (admittedly I'm biased, as that's my line). The clientèle are almost exclusively English-speaking, so it feels almost like being at home, where everyone is chatting with each other, something I've never experienced in French hair salons I've visited, where people pretty much keep to themselves. It's not the most central hair salon in Paris, and in fact it's actually in the 'burbs (gasp!), but the savings on rent get passed right along to the customer. 

That means StylePixie's prices are totally reasonable. Haircuts start at €66 (€28 for men, €15 for children), color from €70, straightening from €100, and a 25-minute nourishing hair treatment with shiatsu massage for the head and shoulders is €35. They also do gel and UV polish nails, pedicures, brow and lash tinting and facial waxing. Check out the full range of their servoces on the website. Products used are from TIGI (Bedhead), which can be purchased (but they're never pushy about product sales here, like in most salons). 

NOTE: Right now Style Pixie is having a few Spring/Summer specials for appointments up until July 31st, including 50% off any color treatments, Me-Day Tuesdays with color, cut and style all for €100, and Pixie-Mix Packages for your choice of several treatments. 

The Chinese, a  fast-growing population in Parisian tourism, seem to be the hardest hit, not just for rudeness but also being targeted by thieves because they tend to carry large sums of cash. I'm guessing that Parisians don't treat everyone equally, though, because in my own experiences as a tour guide and emails from readers of the Secrets of Paris (predominantly North American and other native English speakers), the Parisians are surprisingly friendlier than most visitors expect. It could be that expectations are so low that this isn't hard. But I do believe the right attitude and basic respect of local customs and etiquette go a long way in affecting how the Parisians treat you back.

The article cited a tourism study conducted on the level of satisfaction different nationalities have with their "welcome" in Paris, which on average seemed to be around 85%. That doesn't really sound like crisis levels. It's completely possible that at least 20% of all tourists simply don't understand that they themselves are being rude and treated in kindly (which I wrote about on this site in an article about Basic Etiquette). I can't help but cringe when I hear tourists justify their own rude or ignorant behavior by saying that they're the client and they're spending their money here, therefore it's up to the Parisians to make all of the effort, not them.  

France is the most visited country in the world, and in Paris alone, there were 29 million visitors in 2012, of which 18 million were not French, in a city with 2.5 million residents. That's a lot for any city to absorb. But the Paris Tourism Office and the Mairie never stop trying to improve the level of service and hospitality for visitors. There have been many campaign (like the 2009 "Smile!" campaign) and even the Parisians themselves get fed up with the rude people and have started fighting back with their own "civility" campaigns for each other. 

Rudeness is, sadly, a fact of life anywhere in the world. But don't overlook the fact that there are also wonderfully kind people here in Paris, too. People who go out of their way to help visitors, even if they have nothing to gain and don't work in the hospitality industry. We all have stories of horrific rudeness, but for once I'd like to ask you to share your stories of the kindness of Parisians encountered on your visits to Paris. I think it would do us all good to hear some of these positive stories instead of wringing our hands over the scare-mongering that news venues like Le Parisien use to sell papers.

To kick it off, I'd just like to shout out to the more tha 300 locals who volunteer their time to show visitors around the city for FREE. Yes, if you don't want to pay a guide like me to show you the city, you can get a free tour with the Parisian Greeters. Knowing firsthand how hard it is to plan and execute a good tour, I'm impressed that they're willing to do it simply for fun. Two thumbs up for these selfless Parisians.

After almost a dozen years of loyal service, I finally sold my little Renault Clio, Swampy (named because of its swamp-green color). I only used it once or twice a year, but I always had to remember to pay the weekly residential street parking meter (and the prices went up in 2013) or end up getting fined €17 (up from €11 in 2012). And my car was almost 17 years old, completely manual (including the steering, fun when parallel parking), sans air-conditioning, and prone to dead batteries (really convenient on that one day each year I really need it).

The last straw came when I returned from vacation in January during a heavy Parisian snowfall to find a dead car with a ticket (given during the storm, no less) and two days before an expired controle technique (like an emissions test, necessary even if the car is parked on the street). I paid to have it jump-started, got the smashed side-view mirror replaced, passed the controle technique, and practically gave it away just to get it off my hands.

D'Oh!

And of course a week later my friend needs help moving some stuff. Have you ever tried getting a taxi to put a bunch of things in the trunk that are obviously not suitcases? They’re none too keen.

Hello AutoLib'!

Then the idea occurred to go ahead and get an AutoLib’ subscription. I had been eying them during my morning dog walkies, the cute little electric Blue Cars that, like the Vélib’ bike-share system, took over about 3000 parking spots in the city. That used to be really annoying when I had a car. Now I was quite happy they were all over the place.

What it Costs to Use AutoLib'

I went online to check out the rates. Just like Vélib’, the AutoLib’ subscriptions are annual (€144), monthly (€30), weekly (€15), or daily (€10). Then you simply pay when you use the car in 30-minute increments (pro-rata): €5 for annual pass holders, €6 for monthly, and €7 for weekly or daily. Since they’re electric, no gas is necessary.

How to Sign Up for AutoLib'

I actually happened to be looking at the website on Saturday when they had a one-day special on annual passes for just €99 (this happens regularly, check back often if you're interested), so I signed up right away. You can do this online or at one of the little subscription kiosks around Paris. All you need is a credit card, photo ID, and a driver’s license (EU or international). If you go to a kiosk, there’s an actual live human on the video screen telling you what to do, and you get your temporary card right away. If you do it all online you get the card in the mail. I actually filled everything out online and paid with my credit card, then went to a kiosk to scan my documents and get the card right away. It took about 10 minutes, half of that waiting for the “next available agent”.

And I should mention AutoLib' instructions, information and services are in English as well as French.

Getting Your Blue Car

And that was it. I downloaded the free AutoLib’ app to my Android and used it to find and reserve the nearest available car (you can also do this online). You have 30 minutes to pickup the car or cancel the reservation or it will start charging you for the car. You can do the same thing for finding an empty space to plug the car back in (literally, there’s a plug on a long cord that goes into the spot where you’d normally put gas), and in that case you get 90 minutes advance reservation time.

Using the Blue Car

So with my little temporary paper badge, I just walked up to the station and waved it in front of the screen and it asked for my PIN and then told me which car was mine. I waved the badge in front of the little sensor by the door and it unlocked. I unplugged the car, got inside, found the key (attached by a wire) and turned it in the ignition.

If you’re used to driving a manual transmission, it takes a minute to get used to automatic cars. There are only three positions o the stick: drive, park, reverse. There’s no engine noise. There’s a little screen that walks you through how the car works. It also is a GPS and radio. I didn’t bother with that because I was in a hurry, so I zoomed off.

Sucky acceleration, excellent brakes!

Double-parked à la Parisienne in the bus lane in front of my friend’s apartment (well, it was Sunday), I put on the hazards, turned off the ignition, and got out of the car. Waving the badge over the door sensor locked it.

Live Assistance at the Push of the Blue Button

When I came back down with my pile of books and a free-standing A/C unit (can’t wait for summer!), I could not figure out how on earth to open the trunk. I looked all over the dashboard and under the steering column and didn’t see it. So I pushed the little blue call button on the dashboard, and five seconds later an AutoLib’ agent was there to help me. After I confirmed my identity she told me it was under the seat (duh).

Returning the Blue Car

I packed up the car, which is actually pretty spacious, and headed out. Unlike a Smart Car, it has room for four adults (two in the back seat) and a small hatchback trunk. I made two other stops before returning the car to a station right by my flat (you can return it to a different station than the one where you picked it up). I just pulled into the parking place, waved my badge over the little box, and when it flashed green I pulled out the plug and stuck it back into the car. I immediately got a text message from AutoLib confirming I had returned the car, and that the 72-minute rental cost me €12, charged to my credit card.

I am NEVER using a taxi again, woo hoo!

Some things to consider before signing up for AutoLib'

• I have a French driver’s license, French credit card, and a French National ID card. The process may take longer if you have foreign documents. If anyone has experience with this, let me know.

• The Blue Cars do not have A/C. Yeah, I know. But some day it just has to get warm again, right?

•  You cannot leave the Ile-de-France department limits (you’re being tracked by GPS; they will “call” you if you get close to the limits).

• There are only a few stations in the ‘burbs (none in Versailles, nor at either major airport), and don’t forget it’s running on a battery, so not sure how useful it would be for “day trips to the countryside”.

• I have not tested the “post-2am-on-Saturday-night” availability, but will let you know if I manage to replace expensive taxi rides by using AutoLib’ on a regular basis.

I spent my weekend balancing my French healthcare checkbook. I’ve been a bit remiss in doing so, and now that I’ve done the tedious calculations, it looks like I’ve paid the price for my head-in-the-sand attitude.

RSI, CPAM, AGESSA, Mutuelles? Oh la la…figuring out the French healthcare system can be hazardous to your health. Have plenty of chocolate on hand for moral support!

And plenty of pretty Loire Valley garden pics to stay zen....

I should preface all of this with the disclaimer that I'm talking about my own personal experience. I'm not an expert, and I can barely figure out my own situation, so please don't post your personal healthcare questions in the comments section. I did my homework, and you will have to do yours, too. Hopefully this article detailing my own incompetence will inspire all of you to do that sooner rather than later!

The Basics of Government-Run Healthcare

If you’re a tax-paying resident of France (or a dependent of one), you automatically are covered by the Assurance Maladie, aka CPAM. This is the government-run health coverage system, and it generally covers between 30-70% of what I’ll call the “Official Rate” of health care costs. For example, the rate for doctor visits is €23. Not all doctors have to stick to these Official Rates. My doctor charges me €25; specialists like dentists, gynecologists, osteopaths, etc. tend to charge around €60. CPAM reimburses 60% of this.

The French Green Card

Everyone who has French healthcare gets a green Carte Vitale, which is like a credit card for health care with your picture on it and a record of your health coverage and history in its little microchip. When your doctor takes it, you still pay him/her directly, but the “paperwork” is all automatically sent to the CPAM to handle your reimbursements. It’s nice when it works. Certain medicines at pharmacies are covered by your health care so when you present your Carte Vitale you don’t pay anything at all. Some specialists won’t take the Carte Vitale and instead make you fill out and mail in the old paper forms, or feuilles de soin. Annoying, but the result is the same. Your reimbursements show up as a deposit in your bank account.

When You're Self-Employed

As a small business owner, I don’t actually have contact with my local CPAM. Instead, I’m a member of RSI (Régime Social des Indépendants), who collect my monthly fees (normally your boss would do this if you’re a salaried employee) and send me my reimbursements. This is obligatory, and is calculated based on your income.

When You're an Author

In addition to the RSI, I’m also a member of AGESSA, which is a special social security office for authors. Everything I make as a writer goes into a separate tax regime than what I make in my company as a small business owner, and thus they also have their own health care and retirement plans. Since I’m already covered through RSI, I don’t need the AGESSA for coverage (you get the same percentage of benefits no matter how much you contribute), but any contributions I make will count towards my retirement benefits, so it’s something to consider if I ever go back to writing full time.

Extra Insurance

Finally, like most French people, I have a Mutuelle, which is an additional non-obligatory health care plan that covers what the State healthcare does not. This can be anywhere from “a bit more” to 100% of what you’ve actually paid in health care costs. There are basic plans for single people that start as low as €20/month, and family plans that include full dental, contact lenses, maternity and a private room at the hospital for €200/month. I’ve been with one called MMA since 2007, paying less than €100/month for “medium” coverage.

And up until this weekend I’ve been pretty content with the whole arrangement.

Attention! The Nanny State Still Expects You to Pay Attention

But you know how sneaky little things sneak onto your credit card bill when you’re not paying attention? Or strange charges appear in your bank account? When someone was using my credit card last year, they never spent more than €30 at any one time, so almost €2000 was gone before I noticed the odd hotel bill for a place I’d never been. But I caught it at the end of the month and all was reimbursed by my bank immediately.

With my healthcare, it was the reimbursement that never came that caught my attention. I see little deposits from the RSI all of the time in my account, from €3 up to €100. But I had been to a sports specialist to get some custom orthotics (well, it seemed like a good idea with all this running) and was waiting for a hefty reimbursement for the hefty fees I paid. But it never came.

Catching Up on Healthcare Homework

So I started looking at my accounts, tallying reimbursements and payments back to 2007, scanning contracts, scrutinizing fine print, checking my accounts on the websites of the RSI, MMA, AGESSA, even CPAM. I sorted and tagged and paper-clipped every receipt and payment slip I had tossed willy-nilly into my “Healthcare” folder in the filing cabinet (luckily, like all good French citizens, I've become a paperwork packrat). I made a spreadsheet. I started to go blind. The dogs eyed me nervously because they hadn’t been let out for walkies all afternoon. An entire 550g bag of Peanut M&Ms were consumed instead of a well-balanced lunch. But I finally got it all figured out.

The Mysterious "Official Rate"

First of all, the “Official Rate” of custom insoles is only €28 per year. My specialist charged about ten times that (but was in the average “range” of what they usually cost in Paris). I was quite diligent on making sure MMA would cover 100%. But I missed the fine print (and boy is it fine!) that they only cover 100% of the “Official Rate”. So the RSI had sent me their 50% coverage of the €28, and I looked for a deposit of the measly €14 that MMA should have chipped in. And that’s when the other shoe dropped.

Ignorance is Bliss...and Expensive

MMA hadn’t reimbursed anything -- at all -- in years. Five years, to be exact. And I never even noticed. Like the bank account, why would I bother paying attention to €6 here, €15 there? Of course, let's keep things in perspective: the whole point of paying for extra insurance is to cover serious medical expenses (like getting run over by a bus), not these little ones. Based on my spreadsheet, MMA owed me several hundred euros from those five years. Nothing to go bankrupt over, for sure. But I was annoyed. Especially when I saw, in larger print on my contract, that any “missed” reimbursements could only be claimed going back two years and three months.

I went to the offices of CPAM, RSI, and finally MMA to get everything sorted, to confirm what I’d already suspected, and to get the proverbial icing on the cake:

Me: “So, why didn’t the reimbursements get automatically paid, like they’re supposed to?”

MMA Agent: “J’sais pas.” (Translation: “Dunno”)

He avoided eye contact as I handed over the printouts of my medical expenses from the past two years and three months (so that I could at least get those reimbursements), and bid him a bon après-midi.

The Takeaway

Amazingly, I'm feeling pretty calm about the whole thing. My current contract can't be cancelled until January 2014, and I’m not about to take an insurance company to court over such a small amount of money. So I consider it the price for the lessons learned:

• Check my reimbursements at least once every two years

• Check the “Official Rate” of reimbursement (at the CPAM website Amlie.fr) and what my chosen medical practitioner is charging before making an appointment for non-urgent healthcare needs

• Shop around to see if I can get a better Mutuelle for next year (I have already noted on my calendar the exact date in November when I need to send the Lettre Recommandée avec Accusé de Réception to cancel the current contract)

• The “bureaucrats” at CPAM and RSI were actually very kind and helpful answering all of my questions. I was in and out of their offices in less than 15 minutes (I could have called, but in cases like these I feel better talking to someone in person). Like the people working at my local income tax offices. The only customer service FAIL in all of this was the for-profit business, MMA. So there will be no stereotypical maligning of French bureaucrats (at least not in this article).

•  Know how to choose your battles carefully. Yeah, I’m annoyed at MMA, but not as annoyed as I am with my own complacency that allowed this to continue for so long. I feel very lucky that I'm able to enjoy the benefits of French healthcare when I know how much my family and friends back in the US have to pay for theirs (and I’ve just read the 32-page Time Magazine special report by journalist Steven Brill, “Bitter Pill: Why Medical Bills Are Killing Us”…sobering stuff!).

• Pedro's bladder is getting old. Luckily, my geriatric dogs have pet insurance, too...but that's another article, time to walk the doggies!

10. The Place to be Treated like Royalty
Nothing is more romantic than being treated like royalty. Crystal chandeliers, fine linens, antique furnishings, marble baths, the latest technologies discreetly hidden from sight, beds fit for a king… Paris’ historic palace hotels certainly know how to roll out the red carpet. If you agree that marriage proposals on the crowded Eiffel Tower are passé,  pop the question to your princess at La Suite Shangri-La, a luxurious 220m² rooftop retreat with a private 100m² terrace overlooking the iconic Parisian monument. Champagne, check. Flowers, check. You know what time it sparkles, right? You can still experience the royal treatment without springing for a room. Enjoy a decadent afternoon tea with piano accompaniment at the Four Seasons George V, a rejuvenating massage for two at Hôtel Meurice’s Spa Valmont, a leisurely feast of a Sunday Brunch at the Hôtel Lancaster, or late-night cocktails at the stylish bar of the Plaza Athénée. To truly experience France’s royal heritage, hire a driver for an unforgettable evening excursion to the countryside. Château Vaux-le-Vicomte offers enchanting candlelight visits, while the Château de Versailles hosts magical Fountains Night Shows in the Sun King’s vast gardens, with Baroque music and a dramatic fireworks display over the Grand Canal.

9. After Dark Art Appreciation
Museums might bring to mind long lines and a blur of endless artworks you feel guilty for not appreciating enough. But done the right way, Paris’ museums are underrated places for couples to appreciate each other in beautiful surroundings. Since groups tend to visit in the mornings, kids tire out early, and almost everyone else is off to dinner, you’ll avoid both ticket lines and crowds. And like night swimming, night museum visits have an intrinsic naughtiness about them. The Louvre’s top floor Richelieu wing of European paintings is practically deserted. The midnight blue walls of the Orsay’s neo-Impressionist gallery are delightfully dark even when July’s sun doesn’t set until 10pm. And even if you’re not into primitive arts, the theatrical lighting of the contemporary Quai Branly Museum adds a bit of drama to any night visit. You could also surprise your lover with a full frontal view of the sparkling Eiffel Tower from the windows of the Cité de l’Architecture on the Place du Trocadero. The Rodin Museum’s vast garden is full of places to discuss the artists’ suggestive sculptures in private. Not that we’re condoning any illicit behavior, but what better place to steal a kiss than in front of The Kiss?

8. Discreet Pleasures
Considering how long couples have been coming to Paris – to propose, to wed, to honeymoon, to celebrate anniversaries, or simply to enjoy a sexy getaway – it’s no surprise the city’s service industry strives to cater to their every fantasy. Over the past five years a new category of designer boutique hotels have been seducing couples with their whimsical themes, large beds and small closets perfect for a weekend rendez-vous. No longer the seedy dives of yesteryear, stylish properties like The Seven and Vice Versa are often decorated by star designers and staffed with friendly yet discreet staff dedicated to helping guests make the most of their evenings. And for those who feel a little more daring when on vacation, couples’-only clubs are another way to add a little spice to your trip. The exotic themed Moon City Sauna has become so popular they’ve added two new locations, and bashful newcomers can test the waters during the festive all-you-can-eat buffet evenings with their friendly Club Med atmosphere. What happens in Paris, stays in Paris.

7. Parisians Want to Seduce You
For the French, seduction isn’t just for the bedroom. They consider the power to seduce an essential skill in everyday life, useful for everything from getting their own way in an argument to winning over clients in business. When Parisians decorate the windows of their boutiques, they’re not simply trying to get the attention of the busy pedestrians rushing past: they aim to seduce. The secret is in the art of presentation -- a veritable degree in design schools in France – used to entice, tease, and lure in their customers. Clothing, candies, toys, and artworks…with a whole city of boutique windows designed to please, it’s no wonder the French phrase for window shopping is faire du lèche-vitrines (window licking). Enjoy the priceless pleasures of strolling arm-in-arm past the city’s oldest boutique windows in Les Passages Couverts, historic 19th-century shopping passages pre-dating today’s department stores and shopping malls. The Passage Jouffroy (10 boulevard Montmartre, 9th) and the Galeire Vivienne house unique boutiques, tearooms, art galleries, antique bookshops and local designers, while the shops under the stone arcades of the romantic Palais Royal Gardens are known for their vintage clothing and perfume shops.

6. Exploring à Deux
One of things we love most about Paris is that despite its many grandiose monuments, it remains a human-scaled city perfect for exploring on foot. Forget about maps, itineraries, and couples’ quarrels over whether to ask someone for directions. The true Parisian flaneur – or one who strolls aimlessly – knows that the best way to find the hidden surprises is to simply heed your whims, following any charming cobblestone street or pedestrian passage that tickles your fancy. The scent of freshly baked bread leads to a delightful boulangerie, Parisians with their shopping caddies lead to the bustling open-air market, and a whimsical boutique window leads you into an antique shop too off-the-beaten path to be included in any guidebook. Take turns deciding which way to turn or flip a coin. If you don’t want to leave it completely to chance, start off in the Marais district (known for its many hidden gardens), the Latin Quarter (where you may come across the famous stairs from “Midnight in Paris”), the Butte aux Cailles (often compared to Montmartre “before the tourists”), or Nouvelle Athènes (where a lucky turn down a garden path will lead you to the cottage housing the Musée de la Vie Romantique).

5. World Class Feasting
Romance is so intimately intertwined with drinking and dining that Paris could beat most cities in the world on its culinary heritage alone. It’s not merely the food itself which the French treasure. The actual act of enjoying a gourmet meal in good company – the French répas – is now protected as a UNESCO Cultural Heritage. The French don’t eat and drink to stay alive as much as they live to eat and drink, and sharing the experience with someone you care about only heightens the experience. Both the meal and the company are elevated with each sip of wine and each shared bite of a new dish. And in Paris you can be sure the waiters know well enough to leave couples alone unless they signal for him. Stay at your table as long as you like, you’ll rarely be rushed out to make room for other diners. And don’t overlook more simple pleasures, such as a shared cone of roasted chestnuts from a street vendor in winter, scrumptious pastries consumed with abandon on a park bench, oysters eaten informally from an open-air food market stand, or the traditional Parisian picnic of cheese, bread and wine along the banks of the Seine – don’t forget the corkscrew!

4. Pleasure for Pleasure’s Sake
When it comes to pleasure-seeking, the Parisians don’t just stop at food and drink. Perhaps it’s their Latin roots, but they harbor no guilt when it comes to taking care of themselves in the most self-indulgent fashion. Spas aren’t just for facials and manicures, but for body-awakening massages and treatments that make your skin smooth, silky…sexy. Many spas even offer couples’ treatments where you get a room to yourselves. Try the sensual 28 Spa, with its candlelit pool that gives you the impression of night swimming, or the exotic Ban Thai Spa with its four-hands massage treatments. The French are also completely unashamed when it comes to sexy lingerie. You can’t miss the flamboyant window displays at Fifi Chachnil or Chantal Thomass. Like colorful birds primped to attract a mate, French lingerie uses ruffles, lace, bows, silk and ribbons to flatter, enhance, and make sublime the female form. They neither have to be practical nor invisible beneath your clothing. Au contraire. Parisian women consider lingerie to be a personal pleasure she can enjoy without waiting for special occasions, so it’s not uncommon to see it peeking out from beneath her otherwise conservative outfit, oh la la!

3. Monumental Setting
Never underestimate the power of a romantic backdrop. You have to make some serious efforts to find a view of Paris that isn’t framed by an iconic monument, a Gothic church, a winding medieval street, an elegant wrought iron balcony, or stunning architecture. But don’t let the surroundings distract you from the person standing next to you. Getting photo fatigue? We doubt your partner will argue if, instead of pulling out the camera at every turn, you simply snuggle up and say “Let’s just enjoy this view together for a few moments without the camera, our own private moment in our memory.” Some of the best views aren’t just from the Eiffel Tower (which reduces everything to ant-like proportions anyway). Try the view of the Ile St Louis and Notre Dame from the rooftop of the Institut du Monde Arabe, panoramic views of the Left Bank from the Tour Montparnasse’s 56th floor Champagne bar, Ciel de Paris, or, as an alternative to the overcrowded steps of Montmartre’s Sacré Coeur, try the mime-free viewing terrace at the top of the Parc de Belleville: you actually see more monuments from this angle and there’s not a postcard shop for miles.
2. Publicly Display Your Affection
If you haven’t guessed it yet, Parisians have a soft spot for romance. They may be discreet about many things, but not when it comes to showing off their passionate side. Unlike most American cities where blatant PDA (public displays of affection) is chastised, in Paris holding hands as you walk, cuddling on park benches, and even shamelessly locking lips are not only accepted, but openly admired. There’s even a popular guide book to the best spots for kissing in Paris. We like the Pont des Arts (where Carrie and Mr. Big kiss in the last episode of Sex in the City). You can even hire your own private photographer to immortalize your own Kiss by the Hôtel de Ville (standing on the Pont d’Arcole if you want the same backdrop as Diane Keaton and Jack Nicholson in Something’s Gotta Give).

1. Choose Your Own Adventure
In the end, romance is really a matter of personal taste. The best thing about traveling to Paris with your sweetheart is that you’re not limited to the same cookie-cutter “romantic experience” as everyone else. Sure, this cosmopolitan city has world-class art galleries, antique markets, theatre, opera, fashion houses, live music, dance, wine tasting and cooking classes. But did you know you can also attend a pirate-themed costume party held in medieval cellars? Visit thoroughbred racehorse training grounds in a scenic forest just 35 minutes from the city center? Catch a rowdy performance of the latest up-and-coming burlesque performers in an East Parisian nightclub? Maintain your sporty physiques on a sunrise tour of Paris with your very own running guide? Catch a Saturday night screening of the Rocky Horror Picture Show or a 1920s silent film with live musical accompaniment in one of the city’s art house cinemas? Attend the latest graphic novel release party at a Steampunk-themed bar? Take a behind-the-scenes tour of the Paris metro? Visit the Gothic tomb of the legendary 12th-century French lovers Héloïse and Abélard at Père Lachaise Cemetery? Being able to satisfy almost any desire is what really makes Paris the most romantic city in the world.

Heather Stimmler-Hall wrote this article for Thai Airline's February 2013 in-flight magazine, Sawasdee. You can download the PDF (7Mo) with (much better) photos and illustrations here.

Around the Champs Elysées

Le 110 Taillevent
195 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 8th, M° George V, tel 01 40 74 20 20
This is the newly opened brasserie that belongs to the legendary Michelin-starred restaurant Taillevent. The €39 menu is considered a steal, so you shuold reserve ASAP if you’re interested!

Relais de L’Entrecote
15 rue Marbeuf, 8th, M° Franklin D. Roosevelt, open daily, no reservations.
This is one of the classic French “steak-frites” addresses, where for years everyone has been trying to guess the secret sauce on the steaks. As there are no reservations, you may have to wait, but it goes fast. Get there before 8pm to avoid the longest lines.  

Chez André
12 Rue Marbeuf, 8th, Tel 01 47 20 59 57, M° Franklin D. Roosevelt
A traditional French bistro open since 1937. The atmosphere is formal but not stuffy.  There are two small rooms, tables are packed in tight. The menu includes all of the traditional French favorites: scallops, foie gras, snails, oysters, veal kidneys, rack of lamb, and Bouillabaisse on Fridays. Reservations a must.

Fouquet’s
99 ave des Champs Elysées, 8th, M° Georges V
One of the most famous restaurants in Paris, a classic French establishment that hosts the annual Césars (French cinema awards). Great people watching. Can be pricey, but there is a good selection of sandwiches, salads, pasta, chicken, etc. Usually easy enough to pop in without a reservation to the less formal brasserie section.

Le Mini Palais
Grand Palais, Avenue Winston Churchill (southern entrance, closest to Seine River), 8th, M° Champs Elysées Clemenceau ; tel 01 42 56 42 42.
Contemporary food, trendy atmosphere, in the Grand Palais, excellent setting. If you’re feeling in the mood for winter sports, you can instead go to the Grand Palais des Glaces, where they’ve created the largest indoor skating rink in France under the historic Art Nouveau atrium. In the evenings (Thurs-Fri-Sat) from 8pm-2am there’s skating, a bar, DJ, restaurant, etc. Entrance is €20 (includes skate rental).

Don’t forget the Marchés de Noël on the Champs Elysées and around Paris, which have tons of regional foods; I’m a big fan of the saucissons (sausages served on a bun like a hot dog) and the vin chaud (mulled wine). This is the cheapest place to eat on the Avenue!

Palais Royal/Opéra

Le Grand Colbert
2 rue Vivienne, 75002 M° Bourse or Palais Royal. Tel 01 42 86 87 88 
A traditional Parisian brasserie with everything from salads and pasta to steak and seafood. Also afternoon tea with pastries and old-fashioned chocolate. Dress casual to semi-formal. Was featured in film “Something’s Gotta Give”. Popular with the local theatre crowd. Reserve 4-5 days in advance.

Les Jalles
14 rue des Capucines, 2nd, M° Opéra. Tel 01 42 61 66 71.
This April the owners of the neighboring Bistro Volnay opened this chic, open-every-day bistro with an elegant Art Deco décor. The classic French dishes with a twist are excellent. Lunch tends to attract the banking/business crowd, nights are more romantic.

The Marais

Breizh Café
109 rue Vieille du Temple, 3rd, M° Hôtel de Ville or St Paul, tel 01 42 72 13 77.
Always packed wall to wood-panelled wall, this authentic Brittany crêpe restaurant in the Marais is known for using the freshest ingredients in their traditional and innovative crêpes. Leave room for the salted butter caramel dessert crêpes and a bowl of organic cider. Open daily for lunch and dinner, reservations usually necessary, or call if you’re in the area to see if there’s a spot open. 

Les Philosophes
28 rue Vielle du Temple, 4th, Tel 01 48 04 99 89, M° St-Paul
This popular Marais café is known by one and all for its duck confit (cuisse de canard confit) and amazing tomato tart (tarte tatin à la tomate). There are also hearty salads, steaks, baguette sandwiches and omelets. Get a table by the window, where people watching is among the best in Paris. Good for lunch or dinner. La Chaise au Plafond around the corner also good, same menu, less of a view. Usually not hard to get a table without reservations, on weekends you might have to wait a few minutes.

Carette
25 Place des Vosges, 4th, M° St-Paul Tel 01 48 8794 07.
This is a real authentic Parisian tearoom, very chic (the original is on the posh « ladies who lunch » #4 Place du Trocadéro, good for when you’re at the Eiffel Tower). Come here for gourmet quiches, salads and club sandwiches. The macarons are also excellent here. A very chic place for Sunday brunch (best to reserve for that; otherwise usually okay without reservations for lunch).

Left Bank

Closerie des Lilas
171 Blvd Montparnasse, 6th tel 01 40 51 34 50 
You have three options at this historic Montparnasse establishment: have drinks and bar snacks at the piano bar where plaques mark the favourite seats of Hemingway, Beckett, and other famous patrons over the last century (note: vin chaud is €14, cocktails €16, wine from €7/glass); have an informal meal of fresh oysters or steaks in the low-lit brasserie next to the bar; or sit down to a proper French feast in the formal dining room. Open every day. Reserve for the formal dining; bar and brasserie are first-come, first-serve.

Un Dimanche à Paris
4 Passage Cour de Commerce St André, 6th, M° Odéon. Tel 01 56 81 18 18.
In the heart of St-Germain-des-Prés, a chocolate concept store (you can watch them make their chocolates right there in the kitchen) with a tea room and restaurant in a contemporary setting built around an enormous stone pillar that was once part of the 12th century city ramparts. Brunch on Sunday and lunch and afternoon tea in the ground floor tearoom; gourmet dining in the more intimate restaurant upstairs. You can also just pop in to the shop for a cup of hot chocolate to go!

Ladurée
21, Rue Bonaparte, 6th, metro St Germain des Près, tel 01 44 07 64 87
In the front is the famous macaron pastry shop, in the back is a hidden tearoom with colonial décor, excellent hot chocolate and also club sandwiches, omelets, huge salads, etc. Service can be a bit slow, but worth it. Do reserve if you want to eat lunch there on the weekend (open 10am-7:30pm). Next door is the little gift boutique with their branded souvenirs and beauty products. Another tearoom on the Champs Elysées (#75) but that one is more crowded and touristy.

Terroir Parisien
25 rue Saint Victor, 5th, tel 01 44 31 54 54, M° Maubert-Mutualité.
This is the new contemporary bistro opened by the chef from Le Meurice. It features a menu of all local Ile-de-France (the region that includes Paris) specialties. I had the best boudin noir of my life here! Prices are very reasonable for this level of cooking. Spacious dining room in Art Deco building, open-kitchen to see the chefs at work. (Note: closed at lunch on the 30th.)

Again, this list was correct based on calls I made this week, but please do call ahead to make sure they are open and have space before heading across town to eat!

Les Enfants du Canal, a dynamic new non-profit association that helps the homeless find housing, has launched "Operation 1000 Radios in Paris," an initiative to distribute 1000 radios for the homeless throughout the streets of the capital this holiday season. The radios, which help "break the isolation of individuals and to promote access to information and culture", cost €15 each, and will be distributed December 21st-24th.

Please consider sponsoring a radio with a €15 donation, either directly to Les Enfants du Canal (tax free if you are a resident), or by credit card through the PayPal link below (100% of the funds go to Les Enfants du Canal).

One radio = €15

More about Les Enfants du Canal

This relatively young non-profit group evolved from the 2006 grassroots protests known as "Les Enfants du Don Quichotte" whose members set up red tents along the Canal St-Martin to protest the lack of housing and shelter for the city's growing homeless population. Unlike other shelters, the ones run by Les Enfants du Canal have individual rooms, no curfews, kitchens where the residents can cook for themselves instead of communal meals, and they are allowed to have dogs and visitors (not allowed in other shelters). The residents pay what they can (€0-€70/month), and leave only when they have found permanent housing. Donations help open more of these shelters, which at the current moment are completely full. As we come into the winter season, it's essential to keep people off the streets, especially those who are elderly, have young children, or serious illnesses.

Le Bus-Abri des Enfants du Canal

Les Enfants du Canal are also always looking for volunteers (residents only) for their Bus-Abri, a converted bus in the 14th arrondissement that serves as a welcome center during the day for those on the streets to have a bite of food, a hot drink, conversation, information and assistance. Check out their website or Facebook page for more information, or contact the Director Christophe Louis (tell him I sent you) at 01 43 21 72 42.

I took a short cut through the Bon Marché Department Store last week (well, it's big), and was surprised to find the 160th anniversary decorations are actually pretty cute. Catherine Deneuve is the muse for this Rive Gauche event, with her cartoon caricature accompanying you in a fun little photo booth (€5) and a moody video of the actress traipsing around the Left Bank. There are quite a few "Limited Edition" products for sale created especially for the event, including a Jean-Paul Gaulthier sailor shirt, a cute Lapin Ange stuffed animal, a chocolate bar in the image of the shop, and plenty of home decor and clothing. The scootering Lacoste shirt, I quite like. Have a look if you're in the hood. Through October 27.

The Credit Municipal de Paris (Marais, 55 rue des Francs Bourgeois) is hosting an exhibition "Bijoux d'Artiste, Une Collection", featuring 180 rare peices of jewelry designed by great artists such as Picasso, Man Ray, Giacometti and Dali, today through January 8th, entry €5. Open Mon-Sat, 9am-5pm.