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American-born travel journalist and guidebook author Heather Stimmler-Hall created the Secrets of Paris in 1999 to share the hidden side of the City of Light. Discover what you've been missing:

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February 25  - March 4
Cows, chickens, piggies and food, food, food at the annual Salon International de l'Agriculture, at the Paris Porte de Versailles conference center, 9am-7pm (March 2nd until 11pm). Entry €12. Celebrate the diversity of French agrigulture in over 1000 stands and 4500 animals. Not convinced? Check out the article from the 2009 show here.

March 25
Mark your calendars for the next SOS Help Spring Book Sale, today from 12 pm to 4 pm at Orrick Law Offices (31, avenue Pierre 1er de Serbie, 16th). Paperbacks are only 1€ and hard covers are 2€.  To donate books in good condition, you may drop them off at the venue Saturday, March 24, 12-4pm or Sunday, March 25, 12-4pm.

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Thursday
Feb182010

Colonnes de Buren at Palais Royal Post-Op

"What are those?"

"Art."

I love taking people to the Jardin du Palais Royal. It's one of the most peaceful gardens in Paris, with pretty trees, a large fountain, and some of the best window shopping in town beneath the historic arcades. But to get there you have to pass the Colonnes de Buren. I try and distract people with naughty historical facts ("This used to be considered the Las Vegas of Paris!") or shallow pop culture references ("Those are the 'Arago' disks from the Da Vinci Code"), but inevitably they get distracted by...the art. 

Obviously I'm not impressed. The Colonnes de Buren are black and white striped pillars of differing sizes named for their designer, originally installed in what was the parking lot for the Ministry of Culture in 1986. Their real name is "Les Deux Plateaux". They have always been quite controversial, so when they were shrouded in construction walls for the past year I wasn't the only one who hoped they'd be removed. but alas, they were simply in dire need of a facelift.

Et voila, here they are, shiny and new again. I still don't like them, but I fortunately the French aren't so snobby as to deny people the pleasure of climbing around on the art, and when spring and summer roll around they will once again become a prime playground area for small kids, and a convenient spot to rest your Paris-weary legs. 

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Reader Comments (3)

Quand les colonnes ont été petit à petit installées, en 1986, le site était entouré de palissades avec des ouvertures pour que les badauds puissent observer l'avancée des travaux. La palissade fut vite couverte d'inscriptions commentant l'oeuvre. La meilleur était: "Des zèbres qui bandent?".
February 19, 2010 | Unregistered CommenterEmmanuel
Yum. Humbugs.
March 3, 2010 | Unregistered CommenterMike
Well Heather, thanks for this, because I was forever forgetting that they were all wrapped up and taking people there on my Paris photo tours after building them up to the, as you say, rather controvertial artisticness of the things but with tons of photographic potential only to have to say, oh, umm, sorry, but the fountain in the garden's nice...

So I'm glad I can now go back to happily watching people standing on one leg with their arms out like idiots of top of these things with a big benevolent smile on my face.

I like them actually, but as much for the fact that they have succeeded in making as many people hate them, as I think that's ultimately what art should be all about: getting a reaction, whatever flavour it is.
March 7, 2010 | Unregistered CommenterSab Will
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