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American-born travel journalist and guidebook author Heather Stimmler-Hall created the Secrets of Paris in 1999 to share the hidden side of the City of Light. Discover what you've been missing:

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Calendar of Paris Events

April 29
Sip wine and enjoy appetizers in the company of David Lebovitz, with music by Cat Jahnke, all for a good cause! Help support the SOS Helpline, the emotional support line in English by attending their "Apéro-Dinatoire" evening, at Verjus Restaurant (just outside Palais Royal, 47 rue Montpensier, 1st) from 6-9pm. The fee is €60/person, and I will be there as Master of Ceremonies for the evening. RSVP on their website. See you there!

May 19
Tonight is La Nuit Européenne des Musée, a free all-night museum festival with special events and expositions to lure even the most reluctant culture-phobes through the door. Stay tuned for the program on the official website...

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Thursday
Jun102010

Fancy Hats for a Day at the Chantilly Races

Chantilly is one of my favorite towns to visit. Just an hour outside Paris (faster by train), surrounded by lush forests, Chantilly is one of the country's most prestigious equestrian towns, hosting jumping and flat racing events throughout the season at the historic Chantilly Hippodrome. There are also a few Ladies' Days such as the upcoming Prix de Diane on June 13. Regular race days are pretty casual affairs, but the Ladies' Days are when women come dressed up in their most elaborate hats and party dresses, and the men are in suits. Très élégant.

The 18th-century Grandes Ecuries (Great Stables) at Chantilly

And the racetrack's setting is remarkable, right next to the famous Château de Chantilly and the magnificent 18th-century Grand Stables (photo above), now home to the Living Horse Museum. History books say the stables, which rival some of the greatest palaces of France, were built by the 8th Price of Condé because he believed he would be reincarnated as a horse and needed a suitably posh place to live.The Château de Chantilly houses a museum with a remarkable painting collection worth visiting, and grounds designed by Le Nôtre of Versailles fame.

But back to the fancy hats. Many people seem to think the big racing events are exclusive or somehow hard to get into. But like any sporting events, there are "boxes" for the sponsors and big spenders, and there's the stands and lawn open to anyone for the €8 entry fee. It's an all-day event, with many things programmed besides just horse races. This year there's a music concert by Australian singer Mickey Green, a floral design exhibition on the grounds, and even a "Boudoir de Diane" with hair and makeup makeovers for the ladies (although I don't know anyone who would show up without their hair and makeup already done).


Laurence Bossion's boutique on the Rue Saint Roch.

You can reserve a picnic hatbox for €25 or you can bring your own Champagne and strawberries, a Ladies' Day tradition. Like the hats. Back to the fancy hats. Hats, fascinators and every kind of hair and head decoration will be seen at the Prix de Diane. Some go classic, others go for totally extravagant. You can even make something yourself if you're the creative type. If you're a busy Parisian, like most of us, the easiest option is to buy (or rent) a hat from a specialist hat maker (or modiste) in Paris.

Sure, you can go to the big department stores like Bon Marché or Printemps, or even find an acceptable hat to customize at Claire's Accesories stores, but you won't get the same service and useful advice that you'll find from a real milliner. Today I stopped by the boutique of Laurence Bossion (10 rue St Roch, 1st), recommended by a good friend of mine. I went there intending to get a very classic straw colored hat, but once I got there, Laurence convinced me to try on some more extravagant hats, and I ended up with a fabulously large grass green summer hat adorned with big black flowers and feathers. It's enormous! Now let's just hope the sun come back out this Sunday...


One of the apprentices in the shop attaching the last bits of flowers and feathers to my hat.

Check back in next week for my follow-up post with the race results, gossip, weather report, and plenty of photos!

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Reader Comments (5)

I think you chose a dandy one! Have a great time and I am looking forward to the news and gossip. :)
June 11, 2010 | Unregistered CommenterLynn
I love your hat - very elegant!
June 15, 2010 | Unregistered CommenterKim
You look stunning! Love all the hats.
June 16, 2010 | Unregistered CommenterRona
You look quite charming Heather!
Love that steampunk couple! What panache!!!
June 16, 2010 | Unregistered CommenterPreteMoiParis
This sounds like so much fun and I wish I could attend! Thank you for sharing the information and your experience with the event in previous years. Maybe next year I'll be able to book a trip around this time, so I can participate in the event too.
June 4, 2011 | Unregistered CommenterKristie

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