Newsletter #94: October 2009

IN THIS ISSUE:

* From Heather’s Desk
* The Art Squat is Dead, Long live the AfterSquat!
* Free Pariscope
* Tour d’Argent Wine Auction
* Manicure or Pedicure Chez Toi
 * Eiffel Tower & Citroën Event
* Mexican Hot Chocolate by Pierre Hermé
* A Cultural Halloween Alternative
* Free Opera Lunchtime Events
* The Latest Chic Dining Spot
* And the Wardrobe to Go with It
* I’ll Make My Own, Merci!
* Sales Galore & Discounts Online
* Secrets of Paris Blog & Calendar
* Naughty Paris Guide News
* Gold in Them Archives!
* Are you on the list?

* From Heather’s Desk *
I started the Secrets of Paris as a Yahoo Group back in fall 1999, a decade ago! The first newsletter came out in January 2001, and 93 newsletters later I’m still trying to figure out how to make it the best Paris newsletter (and website) possible for all English speakers who call Paris home. So I’ve created an informal little web survey, just 5 questions, so that all of you can have your say, whether you’ve been reading since 1999 or 2009. This is your chance to offer up suggestions and constructive criticism…just don’t forget that a real human – moi! – is going to be reading the responses. Be kind. :)

* The Art Squat is Dead, Long live the AfterSquat! *
While Belleville artists mourned the loss of the ateliers at La Forge to developers, one of the most popular squats in Paris has finally reopened its doors. After almost five years of resistance, two years of renovations and finally legalization by the Mairie de Paris, 59 rue de Rivoli, aka Chez Robert, Electron Libre, is now open to the public again. Drop by and visit the two dozen artists, and shop! They need to pay for their water and electricity and rent now. You can even become a card-carrying “mécénat” for as little as €5 and help keep the AfterSquat alive. Open Tuesday-Sunday 1pm-8pm (from 11am on Saturday).

* Free Pariscope *
Get your Pariscope for free every Friday (two days after it’s published) through December 5 at FNACs around Paris (I found mine by the billeterie desk at Place de la Bastille). The free copies are sponsored by the RATP as part of their 60th Anniversary events promoting Parisian culture. Of course, how far do you really want to go out of your way to save a euro is worth pondering…

* Tour d’Argent Wine Auction *
Oenophiles, mark your calendars for the December 7-8 auction at the Salons Hoche (9 avenue Hoche, 8th), where 18,000 bottles out of the 450,000 collection in the caves of the illustrious Tour d’Argent will be sold to the highest bidders (starting at €30 for a lot of six wines from the Jura) 

* Manicure or Pedicure Chez Toi *
Winter blahs setting in already? Nothing a manicure or pedicure can’t cure. But why bother freezing your tootsies off to go get one? Just call Raquel (06 11 01 58 03), a Brazilian in Paris who has a way with a nail file and a coat of varnish. She’ll come to you wherever you are in Paris for €15 (manicure) or €20 (pedicure). I found her through the cute site My Little Paris, a sort of Daily Candy for Paris. PS: And if that doesn’t work, try the ladies’-only hammam O-Kari, which I wrote about at www.NaughtyParisGuide.com. Two-for-one specials until the end of the month!

* Eiffel Tower & Citroën Event *
On Thursday October 22 at 8pm, the Eiffel Tower will have the first of its new light shows to celebrate its 120th year, which will continue every night for three months. The displays will last 12 minutes - one minute for each decade the tower has stood. Citroen is also celebrating a significant anniversary, its 90th birthday, and for the first display next Thursday Citroen is positioning 10 new C3 cars around the Eiffel Tower with a camera positioned in each so everyone in the world will be able to watch the display live over the internet and change camera angles to see the display from all the different view points. In case you think that’s crass commercialism, you may not know that Citroën and the Eiffel Tower go way back, as you’ll learn from the free exhibition on the first floor (that part isn’t free, obviously). Watch online from here: www.toureiffel.citroen.com

* Mexican Hot Chocolate by Pierre Hermé *
Several activities are organized around the Quai Branly exposition, Teotihuacan, Cité des Dieux, which presents over 450 pieces from the ancient Mexican civilization of Teotihuacan, including a special "history of chocolate" tasting by Pierre Hermé this weekend (24-25 October), with four different variations of hot chocolate from 2:30-6:30pm in the foyer of the Théâtre Claude Lévi-Strauss. Free with museum entry, expect a mob!  (For more info: look under “Vacances de la Toussaint au Mexique”)

* A Cultural Halloween Alternative *
Sure, you could go to Disneyland Paris for their special Halloween night (€32, special late hours) or you could go to the Champo Cinema in the Latin Quarter for the all-night Tim Burton spooky film fest (see Secrets Calendar), but the French have only recently started begrudgingly playing along (it’s mostly for kids and American expats). They do, however, celebrate Toussaint, or All Saint’s Day, usually with a trip to the family cemetery. Why not find the happy medium by celebrating the Mexican version of Toussaint known as El Día de Muertos (Day of the Dead). There will be hands-on ateliers at the Quai Branly Museum (again in concert with the Teotihuacan, Cité des Dieux exposition) where kids of all ages can make their own traditional Mexican skeleton dolls (Oct 31 and Nov 1) followed by a Bal des Morts show of Mexican dancing with a mariachi band. There are also two exhibitions of El Día de Muertos artworks at the Association pour l’Estampe et l’Art Populaire (49 bis, rue des Cascades, 20^th) and Atelier de Caroline Bouyer (70, rue de Ménilmontant, 20^th), with a vernissage at both from 6pm on October 31 (exhibit until Nov 8, daily 3-8pm, free entry).

* Free Opera Lunchtime Events *
Don’t forget the “Jeudis de Bastille”, free events at the Studio of the Opéra Bastille: conferences, meetings with personalities and performers, concerts by the Opera de Paris orchestra and choir members, etc. They take place at 1pm, but doors open at 12:30pm and places fill up quickly. Bring a sandwich (not sure if their canteen is still open). Next Thursday is a Mozart concerto. See the schedule here.

* The Latest Chic Dining Spot *
Added to my list of "Places to Eat When Someone Else Is Paying" is the newly reopened restaurant at the discreet Hôtel du Vendôme (1 Place Vendôme, 1st). I love the old school luxury hotel, tiny but opulent, but its former English Men’s Club style restaurant was a bit tired. Now there’s a fresh new restaurant with a chic and tasteful 1950s décor: black and white gingham upholstered period chairs, soft grey curtains, whitewashed wood paneling, book case full of glossy coffee table books, and a few pink throw pillows here to evoke the Dior boutique for all of the fashionistas who will surely be flocking here after a day of shopping. Le 1 Place Vendôme is open daily for lunch and dinner, full menu at €70 (I’ve heard it’s modern versions of French classics). (PS: Their website still has old photos; ignore it and see current pics here).

* And the Wardrobe to Go with It *
Recession luxury is less in your face than it used to be, at least at the très secret women’s boutique Tourette (70 rue de Grenelle, 7th). Opened in April in an old locals’ bistro, whose “rustic” décor has barely been touched, Tourette sells a mix of vintage accessories and the latest catwalk fashions. If you’re still not convinced, consider the real name behind the humble façade: Paul Smith. You won’t find this British designer’s name splashed around, but it is indeed one of his boutiques. Next to his signature stripes you’ll find some exclusive brands, including shoes by “Rue de Grenelle”, sold exclusively at Tourette. Worth a peek, if you have a few hundred euros to spare.

* I’ll Make My Own, Merci! *
Can’t ever find exactly what you want when clothes shopping? Design your own trendy cotton or cashmere hoodie, pull, or cardigan, with choice of colors, style, sleeves, decoration, monograms, words, etc. at the Trendy Workshop. Once you’ve created and paid for your creation, it takes three weeks for them to make and deliver it (within France). By then you’ll need a warm top!

* Sales Galore & Discounts Online *
A quick walk around Paris, especially the department stores, shows that the rules are relaxing on the “twice a year only” rule for sales. But if you miss the many sales going on around town (see the Secrets of Paris calendar for a few good ones), you should bookmark this French site, Le Bons Plans de Naima. You know all those things you buy online, leaving the “code promo” box blank? This site lists many of those shopping discount codes, as well as many other shopping ideas (ventes privés, etc) to help you save euros.

* Secrets of Paris Blog & Calendar *
Don’t forget to have a peek at the Secrets of Paris blog, where you’ll find articles on hot chocolate in the Montorgueil district, the latest designer gym in town, the latest cabaret show at Bobin’O, where to relieve yourself at the Louvre, eco-friendly dry cleaner, Bordeaux Apero Hours, and how to keep your metro tickets from demagnetizing. The calendar has a lot of great upcoming events, including music festivals and concerts, unique art shows, the Paris Burlesque festival, a SOS Helpline fundraiser at the British Ambassador’s residence (I’ll be there!), a Versailles bike excursion (free), wine dating events, and a surprising show at the Grand Palais. As always, check out my Twitter feed to find out about last-minute events and news in Paris…I promise I won’t tell you what I had for breakfast unless it’s *really* interesting. ;)

*Naughty Paris Guide News *
The Naughty Paris Guide celebrated its one-year anniversary last month in Paris! The guide can now be found in the bookstore of the Louvre Museum, the Musée de l’Erotisme, English bookstores throughout Paris and many of the boutiques which are featured in the guide. We have actually run out of the first batch, and new ones are on their way for the holidays. If you already have a guide, do check the website www.naughtyparisguide.com for the latest corrections and updates to the content. And the best news: the Sexy City Guides are growing, with a new city coming for summer 2010…stay tuned!

* Gold in Them Archives! *
Browse the Secrets of Paris Archives for more insider tips and tricks to getting the most out of Paris.

* Are you on the list? *
If you’ve been getting this newsletter forwarded from a friend, please consider subscribing yourself. It’s free, and all you have to do is enter your e-mail address in the box here.  The benefit? You’ll get your own copy sent directly to your inbox every month, and I’ll have a better idea of how many of you are actually reading. Thanks! –Heather