Newsletter #95: December 2009
Tuesday, December 1, 2009 * Feed the Hungry: Les Restos du Coeur *
Today the Restos du Coeur, which fed over 100,000 people in France last year, started their 25th annual winter donation drive. This is a very important year, since there has been a 14% increase in those visiting the food donation centers and soup kitchens since 2008, the largest increase in the history of the organization. As a former volunteer, I can tell you that the Restos du Coeur provide an invaluable service for those in need of a hot meal. Feel guilty every time you see someone asking for money for food on the streets? Donate to the Restos du Coeur – your time or money – and you can be assured that it’s going to those who really need it.
* Renting Your Property in Paris: Crackdown on Private Landlords *
Do you own property in Paris that you rent out on a daily, weekly or monthly basis to visitors? If you don’t have the proper zoning authorization, you could be breaking the new French laws that aim to free up housing in the city center. "This law potentially affects about 300 of my client-owners, many of them based in France the UK and the US," says Susie Hollands, owner of Bonapart Consulting, a Paris-based real estate consulting firm. "What I'm advising is that they switch to longer term rentals of one year or go through the legal process to change their apartment's legal status to commercial." If you think this law affects you, contact Susie for more info susie@bonapartconsulting.com
* Eiffel Tower: Champagne & Advance Tickets *
Two reasons, in that order, of why you might now be able to get me up on top of the tallest lookout tower in Paris. It took long enough to get the advance ticket purchase option (until now there was no way at all to pre-purchase tickets, only those with restaurant reservations could skip the lines). But there’s no better incentive (for moi, anyway) to be packed like sardines for two elevator rides to the top floor than a nice glass of Champagne, brut or rosé, for just €10 (open daily 12:30pm-6pm and 6:45pm-10pm). The Bar à Champagne is “éphémère”, so enjoy it while you can!
* Paris Authors Book Signing at O-Château this Sunday *
I’ll be signing Naughty Paris Guides this Sunday December 6 at O-Château (52 rue de l’Arbre Sec, 1st) from 3-5pm with fellow expat authors David Lebovitz (“Sweet Life Paris”) and Keith Spicer (“Paris Passions”). Come meet the authors, stock up on some holiday gifts, enjoy a glass of wine, and meet our sponsor, the tour company Context Paris. No RSVP necessary, bring a friend!
* Nightlife News: Prescription Cocktail Club, L’Arc & Fleche d’Or *
It’s not easy keeping up with all of the nightlife changes in Paris. If you can stay awake late enough, afford the drinks and the taxis, and weather the loss of productivity the next day, I’ve got a job for you! In the past month alone there have been several openings and reopenings: L’Etoile, the club next to the Arc de Triomphe, is now reopened under its original name, L’Arc (12 rue de Presbourg, 16th); after six months of travaux for soundproofing, la Flèche d’Or has reopened, and is now charging €8 for concerts (drink included; 102 rue de Bagnolet, 20th); finally, the gentlemen from the Experimental Cocktail Club and Curio Parlor have opened a third speakeasy-style bar, The Prescription Cocktail Club at 23 rue de Mazarine, 6th, with the usual flair for creative cocktails in a cozy setting. Perfect for the cold winter ahead…
* French Excursions: The Best Marchés de Noël *
Paris has several Christmas villages, aka Marchés de Noël, including St-Germain des Près, St-Sulpice, La Défense, Gare de l’Est and at the Maison de l’Alsace on the Champs-Elysées. But everyone knows the best Christmas Markets in France are outside the capital. So hop on a train for a weekend at one of these towns for some holiday magic far from the big city. Each one has special holiday packages, events and sightseeing passes for the occasion. It’s not Frankfurt, but the adorable Alsatian city of Colmar does Christmas in style with no less than five Marchés de Noël around town. The city of Lille is perfect for regional and luxury shopping -- even on Sundays -- and their elaborate Marché de Noël is graced with a giant ferris wheel. Fans of the Provençal Christmas traditions should check out the Foire aux Santons and the Chalets de Noël in Aix-en-Provence.
* Paris Department Stores Open Sunday *
Most of the Parisian department stores will be open on the three Sundays leading up to Christmas (6th, 13th, and 20th), including Printemps, Galeries Lafayette, Bon Marché, FNAC, BHV, and Forum des Halles. Having said that, a survey in the DirectSoir N°654 says that the French are going to be spending less money on gifts and decorations in 2009, crise financière oblige, but will NOT be cutting down on the budget for the grand holiday family feasts. So expect bigger crowds at the food markets and a mad rush at the Carrefour hypermarkets (which will also be open in Sundays this month).
* Holiday Dinners on top of the Palais de Tokyo *
Have you eaten at Nomiya yet? It’s not easy, considering you have to book online exactly one month in advance, competing with what seems like the entire city for just 12 exclusive seats. If you want to dine here for the holidays at any price, there are still a few days left in the auction for places on the 24th and 25th December and 1st of January (at least one is already up to £850 for the black-tie lobster dinner).
* Palais de Tokyo Pass *
It won’t get you into the rooftop restaurant, but if you’re a fan of contemporary art it may be worth a look into the new TokyoPass. The limited edition card is illustrated by the artist Jeremy Deller). For €35/year you get unlimited access to all expos, a free guided tour for each new exposition, three issues of Palais magazine (Costes) and discounts in the bookstore.
* Tuesdays at the Grand Palais *
The December series of Les Mardis du Grand Palais is themed “Mises en scène de la Culture” with Spectacles, performances, happenings : quelles sont les nouvelles formes de representation? on Dec 1; Jazz et jazz manouche : what's up Django ? on Dec 8; and Industrie culturelle : quelle place les impératifs économiques laissent-ils à la création? on Dec 15. All in French, bien sûr. Tuesdays 6:30pm-8pm in the Salle de Projection, free entry, RSVP for the list at mardis@grandpalais.fr
* Holiday Carnival at the Grand Palais *
Okay, so you don’t want to sit around talking about culture in French, and you missed Prince’s concert and Tony Hawk’s half-pipe antics. The Grand Palais still wants you, and this year they’ve turned the giant space under the glass and steel nave into a Jours des Fêtes holiday carnival with a Jazz Manouche gypsy theme. Highlights include the 1900 carrousel, the ferris wheel, and concerts by some of the biggest names in jazz to celebrate the 100th birthday of Django Reinhardt. From December 18-January 1, daily 11am-midnight, entry €5 adults (€3 for kids under 10). Rides cost €2-4.
* Le Monde’s Foodie Cartoon *
I read once in a French newspaper that the French buy more graphic novels (aka comic books) than any other kind of book. They certainly like their cartoons, and who’s to argue? Now Le Monde has its own Food Blogger-cum-Cartoonist, Guillaume Long. Even if your French is only half decent you’ll find yourself quickly addicted to his hilariously illustrated and irreverent food blog. My favorite post is the November 25th entry with the “Mini Guide Pour Reconnaitre le Poisson Quand il a pas la Forme du Poisson”.
* Secrets of Paris Blog & Calendar *
Don’t forget to have a peek at the Secrets of Paris blog, where you’ll find my photo gallery from my weekend in Reims, reviews of hot chocolate around Paris, pics from an adorable antique linens boutique on the Butte aux Cailles, and useful information about Paris taxis. The calendar has a lot of great upcoming events, including author readings, sales, cinema festivals, art openings, the Abbey bookshop holiday party, and the latest Fooding event. As always, check out my Twitter feed to find out about last-minute events and news in Paris…I promise I won’t tell you what I had for breakfast unless it’s *really* interesting. ;)
* Gold in Them Archives! *
Browse the Secrets of Paris Archives for more insider tips and tricks to getting the most out of Paris: http://www.secretsofparis.com/newsletterarchives/
* Are you on the list? *
If you’ve been getting this newsletter forwarded from a friend, please consider subscribing yourself. It’s free, and all you have to do is enter your e-mail address in the box at the bottom of this page. The benefit? You’ll get your own copy sent directly to your inbox every month, and I’ll have a better idea of how many of you are actually reading. Thanks! –Heather
Reader Comments (4)
The quote you reference appears to come from http://www.expatica.com/fr/housing/renting/Crackdown-on-private-landlords-in-the-City-of-Light-_15124.html
However, on a Fodors forum --
http://www.fodors.com/community/europe/paris-apartment-rentals-worrisome-development.cfm--Paris Hideaways seems to be in disagreement about this information noting, "We, at Paris Hideaways (www.paris-hideaways.com) have also received this newsletter and have further investigating the news.
After talking with 3 lawyers in Paris on the subject, none of them gave us confirmation that this information was accurate. " and further "but as of now, absolutely no information is available through the Prefecture, the Maririe de Paris, LegiFrance or the internet. It raises some concern as to its validity."
Another commenter referenced this government link http://www.paris.pref.gouv.fr/telecharge/L%20631-7.htm but that, to my non-French lawyer eyes, does not seem to impact apartments currently being rented rather for short or long term.
Should we be concerned about the rental agreement we've made being impacted by the crackdown you note?
Any additional information you might come across and can share would be most appreciated.
Thank you-
Charles
I don't know anything firsthand about the laws concerning short-term rental agreements, but I do know that as a business owner I had to get special permission to do business in my own apartment, so I wouldn't be surprised if there was legislation pending or already on the books for short-term lets. Will this affect your forthcoming trip? I wish I could say, but perhaps you should contact Susie directly (the email in the post) since she knows more than I do about the topic (and is the one who forwarded the letter from the local authorities to me).
I'll let you know if I hear anything new!
Regards,
Heather
Best,
Charles