Monday
Dec132010
N'Importe Quoi Photo of the Week
Monday, December 13, 2010 
Always be sure to confirm you've got the right restaurant when making reservations over the phone in France. This establishment in the photo is actually not the well-known brasserie Le Grand Colbert, made famous after appearing in the film Something's Gotta Give, starring Diane Keaton, Jack Nicholson and Keanu Reeves. In fact, the establishment above is located in a part of the Latin Quarter dubbed "dysentery alley" by the locals. Hey, don't shoot the messenger...
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In 1976, I was lucky to visit Paris for two weeks before spending the remainder of that summer driving all over southern France. My girlfriend Stella and I were working painters. By selling our watercolors to tourists we made our way through nine countries of Europe, in as many months. This was definitely the best way to absorb European culture, having no particular destination, and no schedules to meet. My personal goals included sampling the regional faire, as I had just graduated from a short course in French Cooking, in Chicago.
One day, we came across an especially enticing menu board on the Right Bank, about 4 blocks south-east of the Louvre. It had been a rough day and we had walked quite far from our not so posh Hotel, about two blocks north of Jardin du Luxembourg. We were exhausted, and moderately depressed because we had like $300. between us by that time. This sign listed a fabulous array of goodies you could get with their $60. Pris-fixe dinner. {at today's pricing} I knew this was about the closest I may ever get to actually experiencing truly fine cusine. I think we must have lingered in awe, nearly forever.
To our surprise, a man approached from the rear, and explained in English that he was having trouble reading the sign with us blocking his view. After a polite exchange, he noted we were ARTISTS, and asked if we were somehow lost, and perhaps wondered if we could even afford to spend that kind of dough, just for a meal? --"In our dreams," Ellie said, diplomatically, tugging me by the shirt sleeve in the direction back home.
"My name is Jacques Cagna," he said, "and I would very much like to treat you to the pleasure of a fine meal, if you will stay and join us." Needless to say, we accepted, (hoping he wouldn't notice as tears filled our eyes.) He placed us by the front window, so the store would look busy, acquiescing this was his worst table. By now, you get the picture of where this note is going...
Chef Cagna is a truly rare and considerate individual. I understand he currently has two restaurants on the Left Bank. Recently, he has lost a Michelin star, which probably will not impact his core business, but I am sad to learn this for his sake. If Jacques Cagna's is a place which you frequent, please convey my story to Jacques, and give he and his sister both my love. After 30 years of commercial art, photography and cabinet making, I'm back at my first career interest, which is french cooking, and I will always remember the favor he bestowed on us back in 1976.
http://www.jacquescagna.com/usajc.htm
14 Rue Grands Augustins, Paris 75006