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American-born travel journalist and guidebook author Heather Stimmler-Hall created the Secrets of Paris in 1999 to share the hidden side of the City of Light. Discover what you've been missing:

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Calendar of Paris Events

December 6-14
The annual Féeries d’Auteuil takes place at the non-profit children's organization Apprentis d'Auteuil (40 rue Jean de la Fontaine, 16th, M° Jasmin or Eglise d'Auteuil) with a Christmas market, food stands, flea market, concerts, vintage carrousel and nativity scenes, from 11am-7pm. Live singing performances on St-Sun at 5:30pm. 

December 10-14
"Le Noël des Créateurs", highlights up-and-coming designers and artisans selling ther crafts "Made in France". Come for original and unique holiday gifts! You'll find 15 chalets along the Petit Ceinture (former railway) at Located at 83 boulevard Ornano, 18th (direct access to the Petite Ceinture through la Recyclerie, right outside metro Porte de Clignancourt).

December 20-21
The Village St-Paul (entrances along Rue St Paul, 4th) is having its winter brocante (flea market) this weekend, with outdoor stands in addition to the antique and vintage shops and other fun shops in the cobblestone courtyards. 

Through December 21
The newest musical comedy at the historic Folies Bergère is a high-energy burlesque show around the theme of love with dancers, acrobats, and singers performing French, American and British songs (many which you'll recognize in the preview below). Love Circus is the perfect alternative to the Moulin Rouge (including its busloads of tourists and high prices). Tickets €29-€84 (by seating area), no dinner included, discounts for booking online. 

Secrets of Paris gives 10% of all tour fees
to the French food bank, Les Restos du Coeur

« When You Need to Talk to Someone | Main | Newsletter #94: October 2009 »
Thursday
Oct222009

Painting the Eiffel Tower 

Click to see a larger image.

Okay, confession time: I've only been up on the Eiffel Tower three times in the 14 years I've lived here. The first time was seven years after I'd already lived here, taken "against my will" by friends visiting from Minneapolis. While we were waiting in the line for two hours on that hot summer day, rumors started spreading through the crowd of the disappearance of JFK Jr's plane. All I wanted to do was go home and watch the news, not stand in line to go up (then again to go down) with thousands of tourists.

The last two times have been with tour clients (they pay me, after all, can't wiggle out of it, though I try): once at night, when the gigantic flashbulbs going off during the five minutes of "sparkling" made it feel like being on the red carpet at the Cannes Film Festival (minus the red carpet), and the last time a few weeks ago, the first day of the chilly fall season. 

From the ground we couldn't even see the top it was so foggy, but we went up to the top anyway. The lines were relatively short, despite only one ticket window open since the painting of the Tower was being done. We only waited a half hour before getting crammed into the first elevator to the second level. Then we switched to the second elevator to the third (and top) level. As we were going up, we passed the painters, hanging like acrobats from the iron beams, paintbrush in one hand, bucket in the other.

I would have thought there were more high-tech ways to paint the Eiffel Tower (they do it every ten years to keep the structure from rusting, and it takes a year to paint the whole thing). But no. Paintbrush and bucket. The guys (didn't see any women) were attached by ropes, unlike the earlier painters who are featured in the photo gallery on the first level hanging out with no safety equipment at all. Today, even the buckets and brushes have ropes attached to them!

I should mention that it was absolutely freezing up there, and that was back in September. I can't imagine how it must feel now that the weather has been dipping into the 40°F temperatures. If you do go up, don't forget to stop at the first level on your way down (you have to be ready to hop off when the doors open, most people stay on and skip this level) to see the free photo and art exhibitions that are regularly held here. There's also a café, a post office, gift shop, and bathrooms, of course.

In case you missed the last Secrets of Paris newsletter, today at 8pm the Eiffel Tower will have the first of its new light shows to celebrate its 120th year, which will continue every night for three months. The displays will last 12 minutes - one minute for each decade the tower has stood. Citroen is also celebrating a significant anniversary, its 90th birthday, and for the first display next Thursday Citroen is positioning 10 new C3 cars around the Eiffel Tower with a camera positioned in each so everyone in the world will be able to watch the display live over the internet and change camera angles to see the display from all the different view points. Watch online from here: www.toureiffel.citroen.com

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Reader Comments (3)

What color are they painting it? Pink? Lavender? Who's in charge of this??
October 23, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterRowan
They are painting it a bronze color, same as the original shade 120 years ago. I'm guessing the Eiffel Tower is in charge of itself, but you can have a look at their website if you're curious. ;)
October 23, 2009 | Registered CommenterHeather Stimmler-Hall
The color is redone exactly the same as the last time. It was bright red at one point during the 60s! :-)

And to be precise, the color is not exactly the same with each level. The tone is lighter on top than on bottom, so that the color rendering looks uniform from a distance. Why lighter? Because the structure is much more intricate at the top than at the bottom, so it would appear darker on top if the color was all the same from top to bottom.

Useless information I find fascinating :-)
October 30, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterArnaud
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