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American-born travel journalist and guidebook author Heather Stimmler-Hall created the Secrets of Paris in 1999 to share the hidden side of the City of Light. Discover what you've been missing:

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Calendar of Paris Events

June 2-3
This weekend is the Portes Ouvertes at Les Frigos! Check out the artist studios in one of the most famous former squats in Paris. In the 13th (near the Bibliothèque Mitterrand, just off Rue de Tolbiac), ree entry, Saturday (2-10pm) and Sunday (2-8pm).

June 8-10
Nearly 6,000 feathered and sequinned costumes, designed and made in the workshops of the Folies Bergère, one of the world’s most prestigious music-halls, are going on auction at the Palais de la Bourse (Place de la Bourse, 2nd) over three sessions (two catalogued sales on Saturday 9th at 6pm and Sunday 10th at 4pm, one non-catalogued sale of costumes, accessories, notions and supplies). To this magnificent set of lots will be added a hundred posters and programmes recounting a century of revues, original musical scores composed for Folies Bergère revues and drawings by famous fashion illustrator Erté. Public exhibition of the collection from 2-6pm on Friday, 10am-5pm on Saturday, 10am-3pm on Sunday.

June 17
It's time yet again to don your most fashionable hat and a picnic basket and head up to Chantilly for the annual Prix de Diane at the Chantilly Hippodrome. It's Ladies' Day at the races, and the fashions might overshadown the horses, but overall it's a fabulous day out for free (well, if you can get out there by train or car or helicopter). Check out one of my posts from the 2010 event with photos.

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Thursday
Jun042009

Views of the 13th Arrondissement

A lot of people, Parisians included, think of the ugly 1960s residential towers of Chinatown when they think of the 13th arrondissement. But this southeastern district of Paris is very large, and my own corner is quite adorable, if I say so myself. Here are some photos I took in May from my dog walking route along the Avenue des Gobelins, Place d'Italie, Square René LeGall, and the Butte aux Cailles.


The Mairie du XIIIème, my local town hall. This is where the weddings for my neighbors and military parades take place (this is the May 8th march for Victory Day). My apartment overlooks the roof, where the siren for the monthly air-raid tests is located. Luckily, I now have double-glazed windows.


The Place d'Italie, where metro lines 5, 6 and 7 intersect. It's actually quite a nice square, separating the Chinatown towers to the east from the "Old Paris" buildings to the west.

A closeup of the Paulownia trees in bloom on the Place d'Italie. The lavender flowers smell amazing!


This is the balcony of a now disused UGC cinema on the avenue des Gobelins (#75). The relief sculptures were done by Rodin when he was still an apprentice artist.


The Manufacture des Gobelins, a 400-year-old tapestry-making establishment created by Charles LeBrun, decorator of Versailles.

The back of the Manufacture des Gobelins.


A lovely chair from the Manufacture des Gobelins, currently on display as part of the Modernist exhibition.

Detail of a staircase in the Manufacture des Gobelins.

The 13th is a favorite spot for many Parisian graffiti artists.

The Hotel Vert Galant and Basque Auberge Etchegorry, overlooking the Square René LeGall.

The bike path and sidewalk along the Square René LeGall (dogs not allowed in the park, but Pedro and Lena are happy enough with this row of trees).

In the heart of the Butte aux Cailles, more graffiti art.

An alley in the Butte aux Cailles with a constantly-changing graffiti wall.

One of the more peaceful Butte aux Cailles streets.

Wisteria gardens in the butte aux Cailles.

Some random contemporary architecture in the Butte aux Cailles.


Pedro and Lena posing with one of the medallions that marks the old Bievre River that once ran through this part of the 13th. It was used by the old tanneries and factories that once covered the Butte aux Cailles, and became horribly polluted, so it was covered over many many decades ago.

Hope you enjoyed the walk! :)

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Reader Comments (4)

Gorgeous! Love those two photos with the overgrowing plants, looks like the countryside in the city.
June 5, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterChaz
I love the 13th and am always meaning to stay there or at least swim in their fresh water municiple pool. Someday it will happen.
Gerard Mulot has his kitchen in the 13th on rue Glacier -well worth a visit with Meeting The French tours!
merci
carolg
June 7, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterParisBreakfast
Lovely post about one of my most favorite (and often neglected) parts of the City!
June 14, 2009 | Unregistered Commenterkefinparis
Thanks for posting this. I used to live in the Chinatown area although not in the huge apartment buildings, and I still loved it. Both Avenue d'Ivry and Avenue de Choisy are great and lively places.
July 7, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterFreresTang

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