Secrets of Paris

IN THIS ISSUE:

* Heather’s News
* The 104^th Annual Paris Fair
* Dining & Nightlife News & Reviews
* Movies in Paris
* Marie-Antoinette at the Grand Palais
* Free Museum Night on May 17
* Dining Reviews
* Paris Nightlife: Free Jazz
* Paris Nightlife: Champagne Bar
* Nightlife News
* TV Show Seeks American Artists/Writers/Musicians
* Free Book Exchange
* Paris Pet Bakery Now Delivers
* Japanese Toilets on the Champs-Elysées
* More Newsletters, Please!

* Heather’s News *

Why do I always comment on the weather? Perhaps because it always seems to be misbehaving! Spring has been cold and wet so far, including snow on Easter and sleet in April. Yucky. There have been a few sunny days, like today, and last Sunday I even got to wear a t-shirt! I escaped to Lisbon , Portugal for a week of Porto , Fado, and dodo (rest) in the sun. Let’s hope that weather arrives here soon! Parisians are getting stir crazy in our hats and scarves! And just in case May is a total wash, I’ll be in California and Arizona the last ten days of the month to see friends and family, and to present the pre-publication galleys of the Naughty Paris Guide at BookExpoAmerica, the big publishing trade show in Los Angeles . The official book launch is in September, but it will be available directly from my website in July. Stay tuned for more news! - Heather

* The 104^th Annual Paris Fair *

The annual Foire de Paris opened this week and goes until May 12. I usually go for the regional food and wine hall, but there are also entire halls for home and garden, well-being and leisure, and world cultures. This year’s theme is “passion” with interactive booths presenting the idea in all of its interpretations (there’s even a chocolate and perfume stand). Be smart and avoid weekends unless you love heaving crowds. Open10am-7pm (from 9:30am on weekends and holidays). Open until 11pm on May 9. At the Porte de Versailles, entry €12, €7 for kids. 

* Movies in Paris *

I got an unlimited cinema card in January (for UGC/MK2 cinemas, €19/month), and have been slowly catching up on all of the latest films, and even a few oldies I missed the first time around (like “Bladerunner” and “Brokeback Mountain”). Wednesday night I went to see “Iron Man”, and since it was the opening night and the eve of May 1 (a huge holiday in France ) I reserved my ticket online, figuring it would be packed. But my friend did not, and of course it was “ complet ”. If this happens to you, ne panique pas, because with the unlimited passes, more people reserve than actually show up (or they’re late). Five minutes after the previews start, any unclaimed seats are opened back up and we both got in after all. Our back-up films were “Ca$h” or “Bienvenue Chez les Ch’tis”, both French films. The first, with Jean Reno and Jean Dujardin, looks very Oceans 11-ish, and the second is a comedy set in Lille (where the people are called Ch’tis), which has broken every record in French film history. I’m not usually a huge French film fan, but I will definitely be seeing these two in the near future.

* Marie-Antoinette at the Grand Palais *

I went to see the Marie-Antoinette exhibition at the Grand Palais on Monday morning with a friend visiting from out of town. I’ve read Antonia Frasier’s book (and saw Sophia Coppola’s film version), and spend a lot of time at Versailles with tour clients, so I was familiar already with a lot of the history, but it was still worth a visit. There were many artworks, furniture and archival documents collected from different museums (and notably from Versailles itself, which must have a lot of gaping holes now in their collections), showing the detail of her life from her childhood as an archduchess in Austria, her years as the dauphine and queen at Versailles, and then the last harrowing years of her life during the Revolution and up to her execution. Through June 30, entry €10, open daily except Tuesday 10am-10pm (until 8pm Thursday). The official site here and a nice English article from the IHT here.

* Free Museum Night on May 17 *

Major museums are open for free throughout France on the night of May 17 for the annual “Nuit des Musées”, including 130 in the Ile-de-France (the region that includes Paris) such as the Louvre, Versailles, Orangerie, Arts-et-Métiers, Carnavalet, Picasso, Quai Branly, Orsay, Rodin, Cluny Musée National du Moyen Age, and the Cité des Sciences at La Vilette. For the full list and opening times, see the official website.

* Dining Reviews *

This month I’ve reviewed a great brunch spot near the Tuileries, Nomad's and a traditional Japanese restaurant near the Champs-Elysées, Meiji. There are also a few new reviews from March of Sukhothaï (Thai restaurant) and My-Tho (excellent Vietnamese on a budget). And because the weather will surely – really! – get better at some point, here are a few rooftop dining spots with a view for all budgets:

Le Diapason
The best restaurant view from Montmartre is from this hotel restaurant.
Terrass Hotel, 12 rue Joseph-de-Maistre, 18^th
Tel: 01 44 92 34 00
Open daily lunch and dinner.

Georges
It may be just another snobby and overpriced Costes restaurant, but you can’t beat the view on a nice day. Reserve in advance and use the red elevator to the left of the main entrance to go direct to the top.
Centre Georges-Pompidou, top floor, 19 rue Beaubourg, 4th
Tel: 01 44 78 47 99
Open daily noon-2pm.

Déli-cieux
This is basically a rooftop self-service cafeteria with great views over Sacré-Coeur and the Opéra Garnier.
Top floor at Printemps de la Maison
64, boulevard Haussmann, 9th
Tel 01 42 82 57 87
Open Monday-Saturday during store hours.

Les Jardins Plein Ciel
Chic and posh, this rooftop garden terrace and bar on the Hotel Raphaël is just a stone’s throw from the Arc de Triomphe, yet seems miles away from the tourist hoards.
Hôtel Raphaël, 17 avenue Kléber, 16th
Tel: 01 53 64 32 00
Open weekdays for lunch and dinner, bar open 3:30-9:30pm (May through October)

Les Ombres
Contemporary and trendy restaurant with views over the Eiffel Tower whether you’re on the terrace or under the restaurant’s glass ceiling. Very stylish crowd for a museum restaurant, be sure to reserve.
Musée du quai Branly, 27 quai Branly, 7th
Tel: 01 47 53 68 00
Open Sunday-Thursday lunch and dinner, terrace open weather permitting.

Le Café Richelieu
You need to have a museum ticket to enter this casual café overlooking IM Pei’s Pyramid in the Cour Napoléon. If the terrace is full, across the square is the Café Mollien (first floor in the Denon wing).
Musée du Louvre, 93 rue de Rivoli, 1st
Tel: 01 49 27 99 01
Open daily except Tuesday, 10:30am-5pm , Wednesday and Friday until 7pm. Terrace April-September.

Le Zyriab
The Moroccan version of the Georges, without the attitude. Great views over Notre Dame’s flying buttresses. Go for mint tea in the afternoon.
Institut du Monde Arabe, 9^th floor, 1 rue des Fossés Saint-Bernard, 5th
Tel: 01 55 42 55 42
Open Tuesday-Saturday noon-3:30pm and 7-11pm , Sunday noon-3:30pm.

Café de l’Homme
Yep, another Costes museum restaurant with a view – and what a view! This is possibly the best way to see the Eiffel Tower while dining. But the terrace seats are first come, first serve, even if you reserve (not that the luxe and cozy interior is bad, but the view isn’t there). Go after between 3-6pm or after 11pm if you just want to have drinks.
Musée de l’Homme, 17 Place du Trocadero, 16^th
Tel: 01 44 05 30 15
Open daily from noon through midnight .

* Paris Nightlife: Free Jazz *

The Duc des Lombards (42, rue des Lombards, 1^st, Tel 01 42 33 22 88, has reopened after a complete renovation. We’re sad to see the cool jazzy mural gone from the façade, but very happy about the new free jazz concerts called “Autour d’un Piano” (around the piano) that take place from midnight until 3am on Friday and Saturday after regular concerts as well as during Sunday afternoon brunch (drinks are €10). A great way to get an earful of the latest up and coming musicians from around the world without going broke.

* Paris Nightlife: Champagne Bar *

In February I reviewed the Flûte L'Etoile (19 rue de l'Etoile, 17^th, Tel 01 45 72 10 14), an intimate Champagne bar with a Manhattan vibe. Hidden on a side street near the Arc de Triomphe, it‘s the perfect place to unwind with a glass of bubbly in a friendly atmosphere. Guests can taste up to 15 different champagnes by the glass from €10; bottles start at €50 and go up to €2000. There are also cocktails with names like Marquis de Sade, Antoinette , Champagne Mojito and a selection of scotches, wine, beer. Food is Franco-Asian fusion, like the Vietnamese spring rolls, but also traditional bubbly accompaniments like caviar, foie gras and smoked salmon. Open Tues-Sat 5pm-2am .

* Nightlife News *

If you’ve been reading the blog, you’ll know that a few venues have bit the dust this year, including Bar Fleurs and Sept Lézards in the Marais, and the Shebeen just off the Rue Mouffetard ( Latin Quarter ). New on the scene is an afterwork soirée (thankfully *not* on Thursday, which is already too packed with events) called Wine Dating, basically a wine tasting event for singles the first Monday of the month on top of the Tour de Montparnasse, run by O-Château. Read my review and see the photos here.

* TV Show Seeks American Artists/Writers/Musicians Living in the 1^st Arrondissement *

From CraigsList Paris: “For a TV show, our company is looking for an american artist (singer, painter, writer, filmmaker, dancer...) who lives in the first arrondissement of Paris, wants to talk about it and his/her art. The interview will be in english since it is for an american TV. Thank you to contact Sam at job-664610969@craigslist.org”

* Free Book Exchange *

Reduce-Reuse-Recycle, and why not start with those books collecting dust on your shelves? Bring them to Circul'Livre and exchange them for some different books. I’m guessing most of them will be in French, but it may be a great way to improve your language skills (and no doubt the French would appreciate the free English books). There are several exchange points around Paris , check out the site for more info.

* Paris Pet Bakery Now Delivers *

Mon Bon Chien (12 Rue Mademoiselle, 15^th), the Parisian doggie bakery run by the American Hat Sternstein, now delivers their fresh, gourmet dog and cat treats anywhere in the world. Check out their cute new website or stop by the boutique, open Tuesday-Saturday 11am-7pm .

* Japanese Toilets on the Champs-Elysées *

I usually sneak into the big brasserie restrooms if I happen to be in need on the Champs-Elysées, but now you can test out the high-tech Japanese toilets at Point WC (26, ave Champs-Elysées, 8^th) for €2. Their blog is pretty cool if you’re interested in the latest in toilet design…did you know that brightly colored toilet paper, particularly fuchsia and azure blue, is the hottest new trend? A steal at €3.50/roll, lol!

* More Newsletters, Please! *
So, in case you haven’t noticed, the newsletter has not exactly been monthly. However I do tend to add information to my Secrets of Paris blog and calendar on a more regular basis, so check in at www.secretsofparis.com, or subscribe to the RSS feed and you won’t even have to remember to check in!

* Heather’s Tours and Vacation Planning *

Coming to Paris and want to make the most of your trip? Don’t have any friends here to show you around and give you the lowdown on all of the best places to eat, shop and go out at night? Read about my custom tours and vacation planning services on the Secrets of Paris website: http://www.secretsofparis.com/customtours/

* Are you on the list? *

If you’ve been getting this newsletter forwarded from a friend, please consider subscribing yourself. It’s free, and all you have to do is enter your e-mail address in the box at: http://www.secretsofparis.com/subscribe.htm . The benefit? You’ll get your own copy sent directly to your inbox every month, and I’ll have a better idea of how many of you are actually reading. Thanks! –Heather